By Jori Diego Cherubini
A story of pride and belonging, which has its roots in San Giovanni delle Contee. A border village of about 150 inhabitants, 150 brothers, acquaintances, friends. United, with the aim of resisting the times and not making the life of the village disappear, in a project that involves almost all the inhabitants; some engaged in the production of excellent wines, others in the processing of legumes, potatoes and oils. Products that can be purchased – or, rather, tasted – at Osteria Macallè. We talk about it with Tiziana Peruzzi who has been managing a place for true connoisseurs since 2019.
The décor is a succession of memories and references to the Maremma, photographs, newspaper clippings, every corner is a reason for amazement. A serene atmosphere, a bar-saloon, a room for children’s entertainment, books. Surrounded by the genius loci of the place, therefore, we begin to talk about sensational foods: «The appetizer – says Tiziana – is the history of the town: Sorano cheese, cured meats, panzanella, veal tongue with green sauce, bruschetta with tomato sauce, crouton with livers, pappa al pomodoro, pecorino cheese and the “rivolto” with aglione sauce: varied tastings that express this territory, and not only».
Tuscany and, as mentioned, Lazio: «we are a borderland, so pasta alla gricia, ossobuco, arrabbiata, together with local dishes such as tortelli with pears, sheep’s milk ricotta and grated Gran Sorano flakes and oil from the King’s Court, then the thick tagliatelle, the “picietto”, a cross between picio and spaghetti, excellent with all’arrabbiata. The pasta is always homemade by the wisdom of the cooks, and many recipes have been suggested by the elderly, so we have rediscovered, for example, ceciarelli, an exquisite soup of Sorano beans».
Again from the menu: «The meats are local and first choice, the guinea fowl is stuffed with meatball, it is sliced and served with sauce, the stew with Sangiovese wine or, when it is available, with the famous and unmissable Sciornaia from the praiseworthy Cantina del Rospo, then the vitello tonnato that we have brought back into vogue after years, peposo, onion from Selva in foil, potatoes from Riparelle, acquacotta… And for the most demanding, pig’s trotters, guts, snails… dishes that can no longer be found”. There is always a reference to tradition, to roots: “We are entrepreneurs of memory – underlines Tiziana – each dish is designed to bring to the table a product that exists only here”.
There is also a shop dedicated to local delicacies: oil, jams, varieties of lentils, beans, garlic, chickpeas. In addition to the sought-after bottles of the Cantina del Rospo, «Riparelle» and «Sciornaia». Then the events, organized always moving from the Osteria: the Challenge of the Counties, in June, and several tastings during the year. The cuisine, the territory, the memory. Everything at your fingertips.
A Bit of History
The Osteria was born almost as a joke in 2019, with the idea of reopening an old inn. “With the income we also provide services to the community and to passing tourists.” Osteria but not only: “We are a meeting point – he concludes – a community emporium, a bar, a resale of handicrafts, a collection of medicines, a community emporium, a bar, health shop, plus we carry out home service for meals and shopping”. Maccalè is the architrave of a community, an example of survival, a collective vision, a small paradise to be preserved and in which to bring the people we love.
Osteria Maccalè. San Giovanni delle Contee, Sorano (Grosseto). Via Camillo Bologna, 10. Phone: + 39 0564/383511 – Facebook: Osteria Maccalè