Di Benedetta Checcarelli
Opened in 2019, ‘La BraceriA’ is the place where meat is transformed into a true sensory experience, engaging and absolute. The cordiality with which Emanuele invites us to sit together at a table of his own, foreshadows the tone of our conversation: “My family has always been in the world of catering. From 1990 to 2011 my parents managed both the ‘La Puntabella’ and the ‘Bar del Riccio’, and I practically grew up in the midst of focaccia, pizzas and torta al testo”. Immersing ourselves in his childhood memories, we discover a story made up of ambition, passion and bets that finally led him to realize his father Ivano’s dream: to inaugurate a steakhouse in the heart of Valdichiana.
“I wanted to specialize in meat following the death of my father, who during his period of work at the mill used to organize barbecues, imagining a space exactly like this, with a nice brazier in sight!”.
After a period in partnership with his siblings Mauro and Enrica, Emanuele managed to set up his own business in September 2019: “Initially the imprint of the service was ‘fast’ grilled meat, then during the pandemic I made an important decision: to invest 40 thousand euros in cold storage, despite the fact that I had lost huge earnings in this period”.
So he began to refine the technique of aging steaks (80% Chianina), thanks above all to the courses held by chef Daniele Fiore, still present in the kitchen of La braceriA: “Daniele and I have been sourcing for some time now at Valdichiana Carni, also having the opportunity to personally choose the animal to be slaughtered. I believe that it is essential to cultivate an authentic and direct relationship with the trusted butcher and small producers, whether they are local or not”.
All this is part of a process of ‘selection-preservation-cooking-explanation’ of the product to our customers, which makes the understanding simple, exhaustive and light, both in a material and metaphorical sense. In addition to the family atmosphere, other important aspects of this research are the contact with the so-called meat sommeliers – as well as the opportunity to have cognitive experiences to refine the offer: “We currently have two types of tasting available: one international (often using Rubia Gallega, Emanuele’s favourite Galician meat), the other of Chianina in three maturations of 30, 60 and 90 days. The aim is essentially to improve the quality – already excellent – of the local product which, being originally a plough cattle, has a very thick and fibrous musculature. So I tend to recommend steak with 60-day maturation.”
An excellent intermediate solution in fact, to which Emanuele recommends us to combine a good Sangiovese, since its dryness perfectly counterbalances the succulent flavour of the veal.
Yet, the menu offer certainly does not end here: “Since our philosophy is based on simplicity, we have also introduced a wide variety of first courses, pasta and desserts, all homemade”. But what, in his opinion, are the right dishes to offer for a well-structured and complete lunch? “I would start with a ‘Gran Podere’ appetizer, a selection of pecorino cheese and various cured meats with steak meatballs, the upper part of which (the cover) is reused to prevent the waste of raw material. Then continuing with a rump tartare from the Chianina hindquarter, accompanied by ‘Pici with white meat sauce’, ending on a high note with grilled potatoes and onions, for me the true ‘signature’ side dish of the season”.
Info: LA BRACERIA, Via Lauretana 957 /52044 Camucia di Cortona (Ar) / Tel. 0575 62850 / labraceriacortona@gmail.com